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Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Kyle says: Word on the Street....




Yes, the word on the street is that we are back in Boston and it is true. With no sleep we came back on the red eye at 6:30 a.m. and were at work by 9 a.m. My head started exploding immediately with all the idiot drivers I encountered, the obvious violations to the historical code which had occurred in my neighborhood since I left, and someone touched my tools!!!!

Anyway, a good nights sleep has helped the situation. Clara and I are living in a tiny one bedroom in Roxbury but it seems like Paradise compared to the places we have been living in. It is just like our first apartment out of college: mattress on the floor, furniture from the trash, mismatched utensils from my basement.


I feel fifteen years younger.

But, I can't wait to get back on the motorcycle for the next trip....maybe Africa!

Who is In?

Monday, March 10, 2008

Technicolor Island.




Yesterday after Kevin and Sean went surfing at sunrise accompanied by dozens of sea turtles, we took the Hana highway to the east of Maui. It is a super windy road along the coast dotted with waterfalls and roadside vendors offering delicious sweets and crafts. At night, Sean worked hard on an ice sculpture for an upcoming wedding.

Today we drove to Lahaina on a road that skirted the azure ocean and sometimes was so narrow that we barely fit on it in our borrowed Toyota truck, "brother-cuz" Sean's surf-mobile. We stopped several times to look at the humpback whales that appeared in the horizon in the midst of their mating season.



Tonight we walked across the street to Sean's friends' home (Malcolm and Poni) for a fantastic Hawaiian BBQ, complete with opihi (look it up!!!) and home-made banana bread...hmmmm, delicious.



Tomorrow we fly back to the mainland and clear across the country to you-know-where.

Saturday, March 8, 2008

Lists from the World

Yes, we will be back in Boston soon. But, I wouldn't call it home. Home to me now seems like the world. I feel connected in some ways to every place we've visited, and certainly to many people everywhere. A trip like this makes clear how we are all alike, interdependent, with similar wants and needs. We need to learn to work together to accomplish those.

Please continue to check in for awhile as we do some "clean-up" of our files and pictures, and add comments about the trip. Some people have suggested we write a book, which we might pursue. We'd love your thoughts on what you liked, which of my stories you found boring, which pictures you liked best, what parts of the world you'd like to hear more of, etc. (For our foreign friends, this does not mean to write in and suggest we tell me more about YOUR country. This means you Orestis!)

Believe it or not, we haven't even written about some of the funniest, adventurous and scariest episodes of the trip. The drunken jerks with the gun in Ireland, the physical attack in South America, the Interrogation Room behind the Iron Curtain, and the best salesman in the world, the guys selling corn husks rolled in powdered cheese to children in Mexico. They were lining up for it!

Add comments to the blog or email us at juntoselmundo@gmail.com

So, to get everyone started here are some lists I've started:

Top Ten Lists:

Top Ten Things I Miss:

1) Friends and family
2) Good pillows and mattresses
3) Hot Showers
4) Kermit Ruffins live in New Orleans
5) Coaching youth baseball
6) Good meat and steaks on the grill!
7) My music collection
8) Relaxing in nature with clean air and water
9) Watching a good movie at home with some popcorn
10) Building cool stuff with my tools


Things from Around the World I Will Miss:

1) All the friends we have made!
2) Buffalo Mo Mo’s in Nepal
3) Rodesio in Brasil
4) Parking Toys in Bangkok
5) 50 cent tacos in Mexico
6) Caparinha’s from Brasil
7) The friendliness and positive attitude of the Thai and Brazilian people
8) Philippe the baby Giant Anteater
9) $1 fried chicken plates in Bolivia
10) Just Riding the Motorcycle every day, Woo Hoo!

Friday, March 7, 2008

Back in the USA!!!




Much to Kevin's dismay, we were let back in to the USA today without much ado. He was kinda looking forward to having to explain why he had visited Pakistan ("I was looking for Osama" was his rehearsed answer!) and to get a chance to tell some other travel stories, but he will have to wait for another time.
Anyway, we were only asked the regular questions about bringing in food or seeds or animals etc...as we answered the questions appropriately we were welcomed home with a smile and sent on our way.

So, we are in Maui, Hawaii. It is my first time here and I already see why people perceive this area of the world as a paradise...pristine coastline, crystal clear water, laid-back attitude, perfect weather...works for me! We will decompress here and then head back home to Boston on Monday, back to our real lives once again. What a shocker.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Who Lives in a Pineapple Under the Sea?




The adventure carpenter! You're just not exposing yourself to enough danger unless you are balancing on top of a 2x4 15 feet in the air while curring a tropical hardwood tree post over your head with a cheap Thai circular saw and a low amp generator!

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

A few words about Thailand

1 word: Topiary

2 words: spicy food

3 words: ice cream sidecars

4 words: Long Live the King!


Sent while driving around with our friend Ood.
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Monday, March 3, 2008

9 days to go...

With only nine days left until we return to Boston Kevin and I are still trying to sort out some of the final details, such as how to ship his bike home (which he is taking care of at this moment), and I am trying to figure out how this trip has affected me.

It has been a bit over one year that we have been living out of our panniers and backpack and wash-and-wear has taken on a whole new meaning for me, that we have been sleeping in hotels, tents, stranger's homes and eating out in restaurants and road-side huts, that we have been crossing borders and learning new languages on a weekly basis, and that we have been spending every hour of every day, 24/7, together.

As honeymoons go, this has been one for the books! When it is all said and done, we will have traveled for 376 days, ridden over 32,000 miles, visited well over 200 cities in more than 40 countries, and made countless friends throughout the globe. But this trip has been about more than numbers and statistics. During this journey I have come to discover much about myself and to confirm things I already knew. I am as strong as I always perceived myself to be but I am more stubborn than I would like to be. I love the presence and support of my husband and companion, but I crave space, silence and solitude especially in the mornings and the evenings. I am not a tremendous social creature and have to make a real effort to be open to spontaneous conversation. I prefer to do my own riding instead of riding on the back of anyone's bike. I take instruction well as long as it is presented in the form of constructive criticism but I do not respond well to the "do as I say and not as I do" method of teaching. I need to shower/bathe on a daily basis, Chapstick is my constant companion, Listerine is not a luxury in my opinion and Pringles 'N' Fanta makes a good meal. I'm absolutely sure that as I digest the trip over time, I will have quite a bit more to say about my "learnins" on the road; but, for now th..th..th..that's all folks!

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Sawasdee karp!

That is how men say hello in Thai.

This weekend was election time in Thailand. Like Mary and Joseph residents are required to return to their hometowns to vote. We wondered why we saw many, many buses on the road Saturday, many with people on the roof. Sunday, there were miles long traffic jams coming into Bangkok.

The selling of alchohol was banned for the weekend (try that in America). It is interesting to see so many people here caring about an election, where in the supposed "birthplace of democracy" only 1 in 10 voted in the last election.

Unfortunately, as Hemingway said you really need to speak the local language to get a feel for the mood of the masses. We are pretty oblivious here, especially spending time living in the jungle!
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Saturday, March 1, 2008

Glorious ride


We left whispering seeds yesterday, saying goodbye to all our new friends, buying some handwoven products for friends, and promising to stay in touch.



It was a stupendous day, perfect temperature, the clearest skies and wonderful road ahead. Clara was in such a good mood being back in civilization, that she let me takeé a detour to the official Myanmar border at 3 Pagodas Pass. We reached the border which was nothing more than two gates, two signs and two closed offices being guarded by one guy sleeping barefoot on a bench with no firearm presence at all. Needless to say, the border was closed.




We took the picture, and I meandered across the imaginary border just to say I had, and then we headed back down highway 323.



For the next 100 kilometers or so is up and down, round and round, with a new reservoir on the right for 25 miles, and the peculiar Thai mountains all around with their not very high but particular green covered jagged peaks, or blocked areas topped with odd geometrical designs. The combination of it all made it one of the most fun and pleasant rides of the trip. One of the hills was so steep that all the people riding the bus had to get out and walk so that the bus could make it!


We settled in for the night at our riverside guest house, between the two "bridges over the river Kwai" made famous by the movie. $8 and still no hot water or AC, but mattresses! We can work our way back into luxury slowly!

Friday, February 29, 2008

One year on the road!


Today marks one year on the road! We were rewarded at lunchtime here at the Whispering Seeds Myanmar orphan camp with a surprise raisin bread they baked for us in the shape of a heart!

It was really nice and completely unexpected. Of course we shared it with everyone. That now includes a TV film crew, a group of Quakers from a private high school in Pennsylvania, and two english carpenters. We have been hot and exhausted working on putting a roof on a the childrens mud brick house and designing the bridge.

Tomorrow 3 of the local refugee schools are having a childrens fun day. We will keep working!

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

At the refugee camp




Clara and I have arrived at whispering seeds. We are about 2 miles from the Myanmar border. We were greeted by Mao Mao, a real jungle boy about 6 years old who said "big motorcycle" and started climbing on the bike. A teenage girl whose Burmese mother was a sex worker and died of TB and Aids a year ago was also there to show us the right dirt path to go down. She is incredibly smart, speaking 3 languages despite no schooling ever.

We bathed in the river, ate vegetarian dinner, and slept in a mud brick tree house, on some mats laid over the plank second story floor. A mosquito net is all that protected us from the jungle in these open air buildings, without power or water.



There are other volunteers here, from Ireland, New Zealand, Canada. All very nice, with everyone pitching in to help.


The roads on the way here were fun, nothing like downhill, decreasing radius, off camber turns to fire up the juices! Unfortunately, they are slashing and burning all the land up here, you can smell the corruption through the smoke on the horizon.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Help us to Build a Bridge!

Building Bridges

As regular readers of our blog have hopefully seen, one of the purposes of our trip has been to make new friends, learn about different cultures and to build bridges between people around the world. We have taken pictures and written about our experiences to share this with others. For the next phase of our trip we are going to help build an actual bridge to bring people together and we hope that you, our readers, will help as well.

A friend of our alternative education guru friend Jerry Mintz is running a school and shelter known as Whispering Seed in Thailand for orphans and refugees from the troubles in Myanmar just a couple kilometers from the border, near Three Pagodas Pass. It is a very rudimentary place, with power only occasionally from a generator, bathing is in the stream, and they are building houses from natural components. They have a farm which they must cross a stream to get to, and this stream turns into a non-crossable torrent during the rainy season. That is where the bridge comes in. Jim Connors and his partner Nao who run Whispering Seed have obtained some international help from architects, engineers and builders to design a bridge so that they can get to their land during the rainy season. The design is done and the work has begun, but they need help to finish by the rainy season and not lose the work they have completed.

Whispering Seed is a non profit organization and you can learn about the work they do and help donate to get materials and tools to finish the bridge at www.whisperingseed.org . We hope that if you have enjoyed the blog that you will consider donating some money to help get the bridge built. There is an easy way to donate online at their website. We have already contacted our new Thai friends at DBigbikes.com to come and help us with the bridge and they have responded enthusiastically. They are planning on road tripping up to work with us the first weekend in March, and those that can’t ride are donating money.

Currently Whispering Seed is hosting two families with children fulltime, and teaching an additional dozen or so during the week. There are two refugee camps between them and the border so it is a tenuous place to be, to say the least. Of course, we will take pictures and give our accounts of the place once we get there so that donors can see the results of their effort.

We need to build a bridge about 80 meters long out of wood with nothing but hand tools and human labor. Apparently there is an electric drill which can be used with a generator. It makes me think of building the old covered bridges in New England!

Fun in the Sun in Phuket





Here we are just hanging out on the beach! Kevin Boogie Boarding in the waves, Clara with the classic pose, and doing her Baywatch audition!





We finally took a vacation from our vacation and headed to the beach resort island in the south of Thailand known as Phuket. We hung out on the beach for a day doing nothing but sunbathing, body bathing and boogie boarding. We then went for two days on a live aboard dive boat on the Similan Islands, a world class diving area and Thai National Park. We saw tons of fish, rays, sea snakes, a leopard shark, mucho coral and other amazing stuff like cuttlefish.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Scenes from Cambodia





Heroes

As I ride through the Himalayas, a recent email and the death of Bobby Fischer has had me thinking about heroes. To me a hero has been someone to inspire me, someone to appreciate, and someone to emulate on the path to success. As someone with a driven personality, I have always been attracted to people with a single minded determination to be the best at something. Unfortunately, I have often in my life misplaced my faith in heroes who have let me down.

When I was six Bobby Fischer had just captured the imagination of the International community by beating Boris Spassky in a Cold War showdown to win the World Chess Championship, the only American to ever do so. With bold style, flair, and idiosyncratic behavior it seemed he single handedly slayed the methodical Russian Bear with American passion and determination. I was a bit of a chess prodigy, and had my picture on the front page of the Cleveland Plain Dealer playing chess with the express dream to play my hero Mr. Fischer someday. It has been with sadness that I have followed his career over the years, with his paranoia and anti-Jewish, anti-American rants leaving it hard to feel even respect for his remarkable skills. In the end, just sympathy for him having a brilliant mind but being unable to understand much about the world as he passed is all I felt.

Next came the baseball years, and as a young boy growing up in Ohio, that meant Pete Rose. Pete was also single mindedly obsessed, albeit with singles. I read every article I could get about him, how he wasn’t physically that impressive (like me) but he worked really hard to learn to switch hit, and how he also wanted to be the greatest hitter ever. Now a chess and numbers nerd, I could calculate his batting average from the daily boxscores, and I hand made a t-shirt with “Rose 14” on the back which I wore while teaching myself to switch hit through playing whiffle ball. “Charlie Hustle” as he was nicknamed by Mickey Mantle, only knew one speed: full throttle. That meant trying as hard as you can, as long as you can at everything you do, an admirable quality to emulate for a young boy. However, as we all know that tendency to excess led him down dark paths of gambling and lying that led to his disgrace.

Of course, every boy’s real hero is his father and I was no different. I had to be the best at physics, math, and science because I had to go to MIT just like him, the best school in the world. There was no second choice. This hero worship continued on despite our family breakup, where I and my siblings were essentially abandoned by him for 50 weeks of the year and then treated for 2 weeks in the summer to make up for it. My idolatry only really changed for him once I moved in with him and his new wife and children. I was essentially a burden to them, was turned off by their shallowness, materialism and racism. I was told expressly “You will never be anything without us.” Those words inspire me to this day, but only as an extreme example of what a hero is not and to prove them wrong. At 17, I left never to return.

In high school I was shielded from my repressive father and step-mother (couldn’t play with the chess team because they were the “wrong” crowd, couldn’t serve as a Congressional page because I would give them a bad name in Washington, etc.) and shepherded through difficult times to college by my Jesuit priest Principal whose acts of kindness and understanding towards others I saw all the time. I thought if I ever got married I wanted him to perform the ceremony, and to let him know how I thought of him as a father figure and a hero. As my wedding day approached, I learned that he had been removed from a college presidency due to allegations of improper relationships during the time I was at his school. I wrote to him to reach out, but he disappeared to deal with his demons.

I received that email from a friend calling me a hero, high praise indeed, but undeserved. I am someone who follows his dreams and who hopes to inspire others to follow their dreams as well. I have found that people who pursue their dreams are among the happiest, most interesting and most satisfied people I meet, regardless of how much money or success they have had, or even if they are still pursuing that original dream. Sad are the people who never venture to chase their aspirations.

We want to have heroes, perfect people, to look up to and to lead us to the Promised land. Conversely, we also like to put people on pedestals to tear them down. I am yet to see any politician heroes, maybe Gandhi was the last one and even in India we found some people who were not impressed. I lost my hero worship of sports figures during the baseball strike, or the moving of the Cleveland Browns, or of the cheating for and by athletes I saw in high school, or perhaps finally the complicity of the sports reporters not to write about the obvious steroid era in all sports over the last 20 years.

I do, however, see heroes as I pass through the world and this life. They are common people doing ordinary and sometimes extra-ordinary things. I see parents everywhere doing their best to be those heroes for their children. To get them the best education they can afford, to teach them all they have learned about life, realizing that it may not be enough. I see the look in their face of desire and love to be the best they can be, not for themselves but for their children, to shield them from the pain, the disappointment, and the corruption that they have experienced. I also catch in reflective moments the occasional glimpse of fear that they won’t be good enough. I am pretty sure most of them will be appreciated as heroes by those children.

Another group of heroes I see are everyday people doing extra-ordinary things. From activists in Boston speaking the truth to power about the corruption of our government for the common good; to Jerry Mintz, a 60’s activist I met as a youth in Vermont at a table tennis tournament bringing thousands of kids and educators around the world together through homeschooling, alternative and democratic schools all for no personal benefit; to Fasi Zaka in Pakistan using his Rhodes education to write about the ills of corruption, militarism, and religious fanaticism and using his natural people skills as a DJ, MTV host and marketer to show a generation of Pakistani kids that it is hip to be smart, Muslim, Pakistani and to question everything and everybody: all in the face of constant death threats; to Doctors Ravi and Holly and their friends in New Orleans setting up a free medical clinic after Hurricane Katrina to help any and all when the government couldn’t or wouldn’t help the people. I have encountered many selfless people who truly want to make the world and people’s lives a bit better. Why is it that I usually meet these people outside the system, not inside?

About 20 years ago I chose the hero that I think may pass the test of time. He showed unbelievable courage in the face of danger, a plain speaking man who stood up for justice, order, freedom and rational thinking for his people. He became a symbol for millions around the world, inspiring many to speak and act out for what is right. The reason I think he will pass the test of time is that no one knows who he is, where he is, or if he is even alive. I get chills and tears every time I watch the video of what he did. (http://youtube.com/watch?v=O4xtkpO7ZqU) I am speaking of the Chinese man at Tiennamen Square who stood in front of the column of tanks and refused to let them pass. The man who crawled up the turret to speak to the crew and explain that they couldn’t attack the crowd because they were the People’s Army, and these were the People. What could be more plain and logical than that? Years later I had the opportunity to visit Tienneman Square. It was a powerful moment for me, to think and imagine what went on there. I visited the Monument to the People, which is set dead center in the middle of the humongous, imposing plaza. This had been the focal point of the uprising, and it is now roped off from the public so that the People can not visit the Monument to the People. The citizens had been leaving rolled up papers in the cracks, and gifts and remembrances on the sides, and of course that could not be tolerated by the regime. I said a prayer, and a thanks to my hero and the other citizens who stood up for what was right, and hoped that what they started may shortly lead to the society they envisioned.

I think that there is a hero in all of us. It is setting that bar as high as you possibly can, and then doing your best to attain or even exceed it. Sometimes it just doing the right thing at the right time, other times it is a lifetime of hard work. The best heroes are the ones that don’t need to called heroes, but just are.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Why is there a GS1200 mudguard in the shower?


Not How You Want to See Your Motorcycle!

So we came back through the "worlds best physical example of corruption" yesterday, otherwise known as 92.3 miles of dirt road, gravel road, potholed road, 8 miles of wonderful pavement, and 3 villages with roads pockmarked by what it appears to be an A-10 Warthog canon firing exercise. 3 hours of bumps bruises and dust. The other roads in Cambodia are fine, but the airlines are paying off the government not to finish the road. So the majority suffers so a few elites can skim.

At the border I accidentally walked into Thailand looking to make copies of my vehicle docs, and I was forced to wait in the line to "leave" Thailand and then explain why I didn't have permission to be there in the first place!!!

When we got to the Thai border I checked the bike over and sure enough the rear mudguard screw had sheared (yes the one the dealers were working on a week ago to rebuild the oil seal). The same bolt that sheared on similar roads in Bolivia.

Then I turned the bike on to proceed to the next station and my front headlight warning light was on. Yes, the same headlight they just replaced a week ago.

This set me off. I started cursing at the bike and BMW, threatening never to buy another one again, and maybe even leaving this one here. If a bike designed to allegedly travel the world can't go 100 miles on rough roads, what good is it?

The bike must have feared for its life a bit and became a bit penitent. After making it through the final checkpoint, the headlight miraculously started working again. (Leaving me, again, full of confidence). It didn't figure out how to regenerate a steel bolt however, so I had to take the mudflap off at the next service station, then bring it to the bathroom at our $7 hotel for cleaning.

It hasn't rained the entire time we have been in Southeast Asia. If you don't think that it is raining this morning now that we don't have a mudflap, then you just don't understand how the world works in mysterious ways!

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Angkor Wat and surrounds



Cambodia! Angkor Wat





We have spent the last two days getting "templed out" at Angkor Wat and all of the other temples surrounding Siem Reap in Northwest Cambodia. Other than the corrupt cops who told us that foreigners aren't allowed to ride motorcycles in the park (because of course three 13 year olds on a moped is much safer than me), we have enjoyed the largest religious monuments in the world. It is definitely up there with the greatest historic sites in the world that we have seen.

Plus it is a nice town, the people are friendly if a bit overzealous towards the tourists, with many nice restaurants, a relaxing river with nice park running through the town, and more foreign tourists than anywhere but Disneyland. And yet again there is the now very familiar smathering of French, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, English, Australian, American and many of the single men have amazingly met local Cambodian women whom they seem to bond with easily!


Today we went off into the jungle and the hinterlands of Cambodia to find some more remote ruins that the jungle has reclaimed. We passed whole villages without running water or power, with houses built on stilts for the rainy season. The people are friendly here and speak the best English (and even some Spanish!) of anywhere in south east Asia.

We have met a ton of great people. From Jerry and Craig at our guesthouse, to Duncan from England a guy who had a stroke but never lost his sense of humor who lives on Sanibel Island in Florida; then there was Lawrence a guy born in Boston with dual Swedish/American citizenship who rode his KTM from Sweden to here, and Mike and Jan a young at heart couple from Washington who are thinking of riding their own bikes around southeast Asia. We have enjoyed drinks and meals with all of them. Cambodia seems to be a slow paced place where people can relax, enjoy, and easily escape from the rat race.

If the locals can get over their recent past and enjoy life and smile big, then certainly we extremely rich (and in so many ways lucky) westerners can do the same!

Friday, February 15, 2008

Cambodia!

As we rode the 100 mile butt buster road from Thailand to Siem Reap in Cambodia I was thinking about American Icons. Specifically John Wayne and the Kennedys.



John Wayne because we met a Canadian on a honda 250 cruiser, with his young Vietnamese wife, who lives in Vietnam and has been cruising around southeast asia on his 250 rebel for the last 6 years. His name: John Wayne. We exchanged stories for a few minutes while cruising down the road, he with no helmet, gloves, etc but with a guitar strapped on!



I was thinking of the Kennedy's as well. Specifically the Dead Kennedy's who sang the song "Holiday in Cambodia", one of my favorites from my punk rock teenage years. I was singing it in my helmet as we went the 100 miles of dirt and gravel and potholed "road" that is not being finished because the airline execs are paying off the corrupt government to keep people from driving here.



If someone (Mike and Diane???) Could send me the music file of that song I would appreciate it!



This place is the closest thing to Disneyland we have found in the world. Full of tourists, big hotels, and a quaint city center filled with restaurants, bars and all foreigners!

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Happy V day

So for my birthday, known to others as Valentine's Day I decided to upgrade some personal items that were getting a bit worn out....you know, nothing like a bit of some petroleum products to make me feel better.

So we went to BKK BMW motorcycle dealer in Bangkok and added light and lubrication. They were great, and in less than two movies worth of waiting room time we had a new rear tire, new headlight, and most importantly a new rear oil seal on the driveshaft. Having oil leak on your rear tire for 800 miles while carrying your beautiful wife is no laughing matter.

So we stayed on the waterfront last night and are heading to Angkor Wat in Cambodia today. Hopefully we can make it through the allegedly mucho corrupt border guards!