So we went to BKK BMW motorcycle dealer in Bangkok and added light and lubrication. They were great, and in less than two movies worth of waiting room time we had a new rear tire, new headlight, and most importantly a new rear oil seal on the driveshaft. Having oil leak on your rear tire for 800 miles while carrying your beautiful wife is no laughing matter.
So we stayed on the waterfront last night and are heading to Angkor Wat in Cambodia today. Hopefully we can make it through the allegedly mucho corrupt border guards!